Getting there
Ferry from Ceiba (Marina Dr., Roosevelt Roads — not Fajardo), about 45 minutes on the passenger boats. Book ahead at puertoricoferry.com or the City Experiences app; non-residents get a limited advance allotment and the rest go on sale same-day at the window. Arrive an hour early; the name on the ticket must match your photo ID. Or fly: Vieques Air Link and Air Flamenco from Ceiba (~$40–50 one-way) or San Juan, Cape Air from SJU (fares swing widely by date — roughly $90–190 one-way to Vieques; the Isla Grande carriers run cheaper).
Getting around
Rent a jeep — the best beaches are down gravel roads and fleets are small, so book before you come. Currently active: Vieques Car Rental, Maritza’s Car Rental (they meet the ferry), Island Car Rental (the yellow jeeps), Island Jeep Rental.
Mosquito Bay (the bio bay)
The brightest bioluminescent bay on Earth — a Guinness World Record, up to 700,000 glowing dinoflagellates per gallon. No motorized boats, no swimming, no sunscreen or bug spray in the water; you go by kayak or electric boat with a licensed operator (Abe’s, Aqua Sunset Tours, Black Beard Sports; roughly $50–105/person). Pick a moonless night — and know that DRNA bans bay tours the day before, of, and after every full moon, so operators simply don't run those nights. Check the moon calendar before you lock your dates.
The beaches
Sun Bay: public balneario — beach free, parking $4 (free before 8am/after 5pm), camping ~$10/night, wild horses most afternoons. Playa Caracas (Red Beach): inside the National Wildlife Refuge, paved road off Route 997, gazebos and restrooms, no fee. La Chiva (Blue Beach): through Garcia Gate, pavement turns to rough gravel; the beach is cleared and beautiful, but don’t swim out to the offshore islet — it’s still off-limits for unexploded-ordnance risk. The refuge’s far eastern end stays closed for cleanup.
Phones
Coverage is decent now — T-Mobile covers the island; AT&T/Verizon work on the north side around Isabel Segunda. The far south beaches still drop out.